All my stages- in one convenient location!

* all prices are in Euro
* all mileage records came from my Fitbit, and may also include any off-Camino walking for the day, unless otherwise noted, which does inflate the numbers just a bit

Sept 29
leave Indy for Madrid, via Chicago and Zurich
2nd leg delayed, so reassigned for the 3rd leg!

Sept 30
arrive Madrid, hang out in the city, sleep in the airport

Basque Country
Oct 1
train from Madrid to Hendaye, France
Hendaye to Hondarriba (approx. 5k/3 miles from Irun)
albergue: Goikoerrota – 17 (included breakfast) – great location, but we got there close to dark, so couldn’t really appreciate all that was offered
dinner at the albergue was 10, not worth it in my opinion, but it was necessary

Oct 2
Hondarriba to San Sebastian – 18 miles
Pension Umore Ona Bi – 17 per person, 3 of us in a 4 person room
San Sebastian was very crowded; the youth hostel was full when we got there.  This was the cheapest we could find!

Oct 3
San Sebastian to outside Zarautz – 17.5 miles
Gran Camping Zarautz (albergue above their garage) – 5

Oct 4
Zarautz to Deba – 18 miles
Municipal albergue (old train station!) – 5

Oct 5
Deba to Markina – 18.5 miles
Hostel Augusto (and daughter) – 10
Very nice owners, seemed clean, but this is where I got bedbugs.  Also, since Augusto died earlier this year, it seems as if things are not exactly up to what his standards were, based upon other people’s experiences.  His daughter does a good job, but she wasn’t there all the time.  The kitchen was very messy and the bathroom could have used a wipedown.

Oct 6
Markina to Gernika – 19 miles
Pension Gernika – 15
Would not recommend this one.  The Youth Hostel (albergue?) received much better reviews from the people we met up with the next day.

Oct 7
Gernika to Bilbao – 23+ miles
Granbara Hostel – 15 (includes breakfast) – 3 of us in a 4 person room plus pilgrim discount
Great hostel, on the near side of town – the other main hostel that pilgrims stayed at was on the other side of town and I don’t think I could have made it there even if I wanted to!  Great kitchen, laundry facilities, free internet (on computers – WiFi didn’t work for me), clean common area, lots of seating, free beverages in the kitchen until at least 10pm.  Very friendly and helpful staff.  Also in a great location for stocking up on groceries and fruits/veggies.

Oct 8
Bilbao to Portugalete – 13.5 miles
Pension La Guia – 15 (2 people to a room)
Another expensive city – our last in Basque country.  Nice place – at the top of a hill, though! – and they did our washing for us, but things were still hung to dry.  Very clean, and very clean bathrooms as well.  Nice owners and right across the street from a cheap and tasty bar and just down the road from a very inexpensive fruit/veggie store.

Oct 9
Portugalete to Castro-Urdiales – 21 miles
municipal albergue – 5

October 10
Castro-Urdiales to Santona – 23.5 miles
(hostel) La Bilbaina – 10 (includes breakfast)

October 11
Santona to Guemes – 17 miles
albergue – donativo (includes communal dinner and breakfast)
Many say this is the best albergue on the Camino, and the guidebook really talked it up.  I enjoyed it, especially since the food was delicious and very filling, and I totally loved the communal meals.  But, I wouldn’t classify it as the best, and felt quite underwhelmed by it – perhaps due to the massive hype leading up to it.

October 12
Guemes to Santander – 13 miles
municipal albergue – 10 (we were absolutely required to show our credentials – first time it was a requirement to stay there)

October 13
Santander to Santillana del Mar – 22 miles
municipal alberque – 6

October 14
Santillana del Mar to San Vicente la Barquera – 26 miles
albergue – 10 (including breakfast)

October 15
San Vicente to Buelna – 14.5 miles
‘new’ albergue – 15 (included 3 course dinner with wine/water, and breakfast)

October 16
Buelna to Playa de Poo (Poo de Llanes) – 15 miles
youth hostel – 12.5 (originally 2 of us in garden annex house, then 1 more – 2 single beds, 1 set of bunks)

October 17
Playa de Poo (Poo de Llanes) to Cuerres – 16 miles
Casa Belen (private albergue) – donativo (included dinner and breakfast and snacks in the afternoon!)

October 18
Cuerres to Colunga – 18.5 miles
Confiteria Las Palmeras – 15 (private room)

October 19
Colunga to San Salvador de Valdedios – 19 miles
monastery albergue – 5

October 20
Valdedios to Oviedo – 25 miles
municipal albergue – 5

October 21
Oviedo to Venta del Escamplero – 10.5 miles
municipal albergue – 4

October 22
Escamplero to Cornellana – 18 miles
municipal albergue – 5

October 23
Cornellana to Tineo – 21.5 miles
municipal albergue – 5

October 24
Tineo to Borres – 12.5 miles
municipal albergue – 5

October 25
Borres to Berducedo – 19 miles
municipal albergue – 5

October 26
Berducedo to Grandas de Salime – 15 miles
municipal albergue – 5

October 27
Grandas de Salime to Padron – 19.5 miles
municipal albergue – 6

October 28
Padron to Castroverde – 23 miles
municipal albergue – 6

October 29
Castroverde to Lugo – 18 miles
municipal albergue – 6

October 30
Lugo to As Seixas – 23 miles
municipal albergue – 6

October 31
As Seixas to Arzua – 20 miles
municipal albergue – 6

November 1
Arzua to Monte de Gozo – 23 miles
albergue – 6

November 2
Monte de Gozo to Santiago – 4 miles
Seminario Menor – 10 (5 of us in a 5 person room)

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4 Responses to All my stages- in one convenient location!

  1. cam5735 says:

    Hi Andrea, thanks for posting this information. I did the Coastal route last year, and am returning in mid -May to hike the Camino Primitivo. Do you know if the albergues are open by then? I know the ones on the Ruta del Norte did not open until June 1.

    Sounds like you had a great trip.


    • I was on the Primitivo in October and all the albergues were open (well, except for the private one that had just been sold, but I wasn’t planning on staying there and it might be open again by spring). From what I recall, most of the albergues were open April-October, though a few required asking in a shop for the key (Escamplero, Pola de Siero). On the Norte, some (Basque country) were only open July-August, so we had to find pensions, but that was not the case on the Primitivo. Enjoy! I loved the Primitivo!


  2. Kelly catlow says:

    I was hoping to go in June but do the albergues really not open until July?


    • According to my 2014 guidebook, there were just a few that didn’t open until July. The others were April or May through the end of Sept. Unfortunately, I went in October and many in the early sections were closed for the season!


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